EBEL: The Grand Comeback? François-Paul Journe and Chanel Open a New Chapter in Its History

One of Switzerland’s most historic watchmaking companies is changing hands. The agreement to acquire EBEL by an investment group led by Montres Journe, with the participation of Chanel and Pierre Jacques, is raising hopes for the revival of a brand that was once at the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking.

There are names in the watchmaking world that need no special introduction. Names that have left their mark not only on the technical evolution of mechanical watches, but also on aesthetics, design, and the very concept of luxury.

The EBEL is undoubtedly one of them.

For those who have been following Swiss watchmaking for decades, the name EBEL brings to mind an era when creativity, technical excellence, and commercial success could coexist in an almost self-evident way. An era when the company’s signature wavy bracelets, elegant cases, and mechanical chronographs were symbols of understated luxury.

Today, October 8, 2026, the historic Swiss company is facing a development that may prove decisive for its future.

The Movado Group officially announced the signing of a binding agreement to sell 95% of EBEL for $66.5 million to an investment consortium led by Montres Journe SA, with the participation of Chanel and Pierre Jacques.

Movado will retain the remaining 5%, and the transaction is expected to close in the coming months, subject to the customary conditions.

This isn't just another acquisition in the luxury watch industry.

This is a coming together of a historic name and people with a deep understanding of fine watchmaking.

From 1911 to the Golden Age of the EBEL

The history of EBEL began in 1911 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, when Eugène Blum and Alice Lévy founded a company that would come to be associated with elegance and quality craftsmanship.

The name EBEL itself comes from the initials of the phrase "Eugène Blum Et Lévy."

From its earliest years, the company sought to establish an identity in which mechanical precision would coexist with aesthetic harmony. This philosophy gradually evolved into one of its most recognizable characteristics.

The real breakthrough, however, came several decades later.

Under the leadership of Pierre-Alain Blum, the founders' grandson, EBEL became one of the leading manufacturers of luxury Swiss watches in the 1980s.

The launch of the Sport Classic in 1977 marked a turning point. The distinctive bracelet with its wavy links created a completely unique aesthetic identity.

It was a design approach that did not attempt to imitate anyone.

EBEL had managed to create something exceptionally difficult: a watch that anyone could recognize even without reading the name on the dial.

During the same period, the company established a significant presence in the luxury mechanical watch market, while its partnership with Zenith and the use of the legendary El Primero further strengthened its technical reputation.

At the height of its success, EBEL was one of the largest buyers of El Primero movements, and its production had reached such a scale that even Cartier collaborated with it on watch manufacturing.

EBEL was never just a beautiful watch

If we limit EBEL's history to its elegant designs, we would be doing a significant part of its watchmaking heritage an injustice.

The company's historical chronographs featuring Zenith El Primero movements are particularly attractive options for collectors today.

Later, EBEL also invested in the development of its own movements, a prime example being the Calibre 137, an automatic mechanical chronograph that embodies the company’s technical aspirations.

It is precisely this aspect of EBEL that is of particular interest to those who know the company from behind the scenes and not just from store windows.

The quality of a watch is not revealed solely by the finish of the case or the aesthetics of the dial.

It is also evident from the mechanism's design, the quality of its components, the manufacturing choices, and the availability of long-term technical support.

The EBEL has a history that encompasses all of these elements.

And perhaps this is the most important legacy that young investors are inheriting today.

The Period of Uncertainty and the Movado Era

Despite its enormous success in the 1980s, EBEL’s trajectory was not left unaffected by the business changes that followed.

In 1994, the company came under the control of Investcorp. This was followed by a period under LVMH, and, in 2004, its acquisition by the Movado Group.

During these changes, the EBEL gradually lost some of the commercial momentum that had characterized it.

The company continued to manufacture Swiss watches and maintain historical collections, but its presence in the international market no longer reflected the magnitude of its legacy.

The revival of the Sport Classic in 2017 was an effort to reconnect with its glorious past, though it has not yet led to a full-scale return of the EBEL to its former position.

That's exactly what makes today's news so interesting.

EBEL is not an unknown company that needs to make a name for itself.

It is a historic company that needs to draw on its history once again.

Photo credit: perpetualpassion.com

François-Paul Journe: A Name That Redefines Expectations

François-Paul Journe's involvement is perhaps the aspect that has sparked the most interest in the watchmaking community.

The founder of F.P. Journe is considered one of the most important independent creators in contemporary haute horlogerie.

His work is characterized by technical innovation, mechanical complexity, and a deep commitment to the philosophy of construction.

In contrast to the approach that views the watch primarily as a luxury item, Journe belongs to that school of watchmakers for whom the movement, technical conception, and quality are the starting point of creation.

In the official announcement of the acquisition, he placed particular emphasis on the product, repeating the word “product” three times.

This position has its own significance.

This is not an announcement about new mechanisms or future collections. However, it reveals a philosophy that seems to place the watch itself at the center of the day ahead.

And for a company with EBEL's history, this is a particularly encouraging starting point.

Chanel and Pierre Jacques: Capital, Experience, and Strategy

Chanel's presence adds a second, equally important dimension.

The French firm already has a significant presence in the luxury watchmaking sector and experience investing in specialized Swiss companies.

Since 2018, he has also been a shareholder in F.P. Journe, a fact that adds further interest to this new collaboration.

Chanel can offer EBEL financial support, expertise in the luxury sector, and a long-term approach to developing a historic brand.

Pierre Jacques, who previously served as head of De Bethune, will take over operational leadership.

His selection is significant, as he is a person with experience in a field where technical innovation, limited production, and a manufacturer’s unique identity play a decisive role.

The combination of these three elements creates an interesting balance: technical expertise from Montres Journe, experience and financial support from Chanel, and managerial guidance from Pierre Jacques.

Photo credit: faces.ch

Villa Turque remains a part of history

One particularly interesting detail of the agreement concerns Villa Turque in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

The historic building, designed by Le Corbusier, is one of the most significant architectural elements associated with EBEL's identity.

According to the official announcement, Villa Turque is among the assets that will be transferred to the new corporate structure.

This detail also has symbolic significance.

EBEL has always been a company that sought to connect watchmaking with architecture, art, and industrial design.

The preservation of this historical heritage under the agreement shows that a new era does not necessarily have to begin by abandoning the past.

Can EBEL make a comeback in the world of fine watchmaking?

This is perhaps the biggest question raised by today's announcement.

EBEL has a rich history, a distinctive design identity, and a significant technical legacy.

It remains to be seen whether the new owners will choose to restore the company to a higher market segment.

Could we see a new generation of mechanical chronographs?

Could the philosophy behind EBEL's historical movements make a comeback, this time with a modern technical approach?

Will the Sport Classic and 1911 collections take on a different character, one more focused on fine watchmaking?

All of these are interesting possibilities, but they are not confirmed plans.

To date, no specific roadmap for new products has been presented.

What we do know is that the new investment team has the experience and resources to reassess EBEL's market position.

True success, however, will depend on more than just the names of the investors.

It will depend on the watches themselves.

The Importance of Technical Support in the New Era

For us at The-Watchmaker, this news holds special significance.

As an official EBEL retail partner and authorized service center in Greece, we know that the true value of a watch extends far beyond the moment of purchase.

A high-quality mechanical watch must be capable of being properly maintained and repaired, even many decades after it was manufactured.

Access to suitable replacement parts, technical documentation, and the maintenance of a well-organized support network are key factors in determining the long-term value of a watchmaking company.

This is especially true for a brand like EBEL, whose history includes movements and designs from different eras.

Movado has already announced that, following the completion of the transaction, it will provide transitional services aimed at ensuring business continuity for EBEL’s customers and partners.

Details regarding the future organization of the service network have not yet been made public.

For our part, we are following these developments with great interest, as we believe that long-term technical support is an integral part of authentic Swiss watchmaking.

A legendary name facing a second chance

The history of Swiss watchmaking is full of companies that have enjoyed tremendous success, weathered periods of uncertainty, and ultimately sought a new path.

The EBEL is currently facing such a moment.

The arrival of François-Paul Journe, Chanel, and Pierre Jacques does not in and of itself guarantee a spectacular comeback.

However, it lays the groundwork for something the company has been lacking in recent years: a new vision centered on its identity as a watchmaker.

Perhaps the biggest challenge is not to create a completely different EBEL.

Perhaps it is the rediscovery of those qualities that once made her so special.

Design independence.

Of mechanical ambition.

The kind of quality that doesn't need exaggeration to prove its worth.

EBEL doesn't need to reinvent itself. It needs to remember why it was once one of the most important companies in the Swiss watchmaking industry.

And if the new owners manage to transform this legacy into modern watches that are both substantively and technically interesting, then October 8, 2026, may go down in history as the beginning of a true renaissance.