When a reissue becomes more than just a reproduction

There are watches designed to follow a trend. And there are those born out of the need to retell a story.

In recent years, the Swiss watch industry has been experiencing an unprecedented return to the past. Almost every major company has brought one of its iconic models back into the spotlight: diving watches from the 1950s, chronographs from the ’60s, and military watches from the ’70s. The term “reissue” has now become part of collectors’ everyday vocabulary.

However, behind this term lie two completely different philosophies.

The first approach aims for the greatest possible fidelity. It reproduces every detail of the original model, even features that are now considered outdated, because the goal is historical accuracy.

The second approach treats the past as a starting point rather than a limitation. It preserves the character of the original design but redesigns it from scratch, using modern materials, new construction methods, and ergonomic improvements that serve today’s users.

The new Sicura HEXA 400 clearly falls into the second category.

It was not designed to become a “vintage piece.” It was designed to be a truly modern tool, while retaining the character of one of the most distinctive diving watches Sicura has ever created. As the manufacturer explains, the goal was to preserve the core DNA of the historic Diver 400, while revising nearly every individual design element to improve readability, ergonomics, build quality, and water resistance.

And to truly understand the HEXA 400, you first need to get to know the company that created it.

Sicura was never a “typical” Swiss company

When we hear the name Sicura today, many collectors automatically think of its connection to Breitling.

The reality, however, is much more interesting.

Sicura was founded in 1939 in Grenchen, Switzerland, a city that was one of the most important centers of Swiss watchmaking during the 20th century. There, alongside renowned manufacturers, Sicura charted a different course from the very beginning. It did not attempt to compete with traditional companies solely through craftsmanship or luxury. Instead, it invested primarily in innovation, unconventional ideas, and the creation of watches that stood out both aesthetically and functionally.

The big change came when engineer and entrepreneur Ernest Schneider took the helm of the company.

In the history of Swiss watchmaking, his name is primarily associated with the rescue of Breitling in 1979. However, even before taking on that historic role, he had already shaped Sicura’s philosophy.

He wasn't just interested in building yet another mechanical watch.

He wanted to experiment.

The time when Sicura wasn't afraid to try anything

In the 1960s and 1970s, the watchmaking industry was constantly on the lookout for new technologies.

Sicura wasn't just sitting back and watching these developments unfold.

He was trying to stay ahead of them.

According to the company itself, during that period Sicura introduced diving watches with patented bezel systems, models with two crowns, jump-hour displays inspired by the aesthetics of the space age, electronic and transistor watches, early quartz applications, solar-powered watches, and even LED and LCD models at a time when these technologies were just taking their first steps. At the same time, he did not hesitate to experiment with unusual features, such as cigarette consumption counters, built-in compasses, and miniature computers.

Today, many of these ideas seem strange or even eccentric.

In the 1970s, however, they were true testaments to creativity.

Sicura wasn't trying to be conservative.

She was trying to be different.

That may well be why its vintage models have attracted such devoted collectors today. They are unlike any other watch from their era.

From Sicura to Breitling

In 1979, the global watchmaking industry was at the height of the so-called Quartz Crisis.

Many long-established companies faced serious financial problems, and quite a few disappeared for good.

Breitling was among them.

Ernest Schneider then decided to acquire the company, thereby keeping alive one of the most important names in Swiss watchmaking. As Sicura reports, the experience and philosophy he had developed throughout the company’s history formed the basis for this historic move.

This connection explains why collectors now view Sicura in a different light.

It's not just another vintage brand.

It is a chapter in the history that led to Breitling's continued success.

1968: A diver unlike any other

In the late 1960s, diving watches were experiencing a huge boom.

Rolex had already introduced the Submariner.

Blancpain had paved the way with the Fifty Fathoms.

Doxa collaborated with Jacques Cousteau.

Enicar, Squale, and dozens of other companies were vying for their place in a rapidly evolving market.

In this environment, Sicura chose not to follow the beaten path.

He presented a diver that looked like… a Sicura.

The Diver 400

The Sicura Diver 400 was introduced in 1968 and stood out from the very beginning.

Its hexagonal case was unlike anything else on the market.

The two crowns created a distinctive symmetry, while the inner rotating bezel gave the watch a technical look that was more reminiscent of a professional instrument than an everyday accessory.

The original model featured a chrome-plated brass case, an acrylic crystal, a bidirectional outer bezel with a metal insert, applied hour markers with tritium luminescent material, and an Ebauches Bettlach movement. The upper crown was used to adjust the inner bezel, while the second crown was used to set the time. The rated water resistance reached 400 meters, although Sicura itself notes that measurements at that time did not follow today’s ISO certification standards.

But what really set the Diver 400 apart wasn't the numbers.

That was just the way he was.

At a time when most diver's watches followed similar design standards, Sicura dared to create something that was instantly recognizable at first glance.

Personality Over Fashion

Looking at the Diver 400 today, it’s easy to spot elements that reflect the aesthetics of the late sixties: the abundance of information on the dial, the multiple scales, the acrylic crystal, and the proportions of the hands.

What remains timeless, however, is the basic design concept.

The hexagonal frame.

The Two Crowns.

The vivid, tool-like image.

The desire to stand out from the competition.

It is no coincidence that, nearly six decades later, these very same elements served as the starting point for the creation of the new HEXA 400.

Not as an object of nostalgia.

But as the foundation upon which Sicura chose to rebuild a modern Swiss diver's watch.

When Progress Is More Important Than Nostalgia

In watchmaking, there is a fine line between respect for history and the pitfall of imitation.

In recent years, we have seen dozens of reissues of historic models. Some reproduce even the imperfections of the originals with striking accuracy, while others simply borrow certain aesthetic elements to capitalize on the power of nostalgia.

Sicura took a different path.

Instead of copying the 1968 Diver 400, he decided to approach it as if it were still on the company’s drawing board—as if there were a natural continuation of its evolution over nearly six decades.

The result of this philosophy is the HEXA 400.

A watch that is instantly recognizable as a descendant of the historic Diver 400, but in which nearly every individual component has been redesigned with functionality, reliability, and the needs of today’s wearer in mind. Sicura itself describes the new model as a “modernized reinterpretation” that preserves the core DNA of the original diver while improving readability, case geometry, finish, and water resistance.

One glance is enough

What's impressive about the HEXA 400 is that you don't have to read the logo to know where it comes from.

The distinctive hexagonal frame remains the dominant design element.

The two crowns are still on the right side.

The symmetry of the dial is strongly reminiscent of the Diver 400.

The utilitarian aesthetic is still present.

And yet…

The more one observes it, the more one realizes that almost nothing has really remained the same.

This isn't just a “facelift.”

This is a comprehensive redesign.

The case

The Evolution of an Iconic Band

The first Diver 400 featured a chrome-plated brass case with polished surfaces and an acrylic crystal.

The new HEXA 400 retains its distinctive hexagonal shape, but the construction is completely different.

The case is now made of 316L stainless steel, featuring a satin finish on the main surfaces and polished chamfers that highlight its bold geometric lines. Sapphire crystal replaces the acrylic crystal, offering significantly greater scratch resistance and better optical clarity.

Sicura did not change the shape of the case.

He perfected it.

The parallels remain familiar

It is particularly interesting that the exterior dimensions did not differ significantly from those of the original model.

The increase in thickness by two millimeters is no coincidence.

This is due to the case’s modern construction, improved water resistance, sapphire crystal, and the watch’s overall more robust architecture. At the same time, the lug-to-lug width remains exceptionally compact at 46 mm, ensuring a comfortable fit even on medium-sized wrists.

The Two Crowns

A historical idea that took on real meaning

Of all the features of the Diver 400, perhaps none is as recognizable as its two crowns.

On the 1968 model, one was used to set the time and the other to operate the inner rotating bezel.

This concept is also carried over to the HEXA 400.

The difference lies in the execution.

The new bezels are significantly larger, feature deeper knurling for a better grip, and are now screw-down, improving both water resistance and the feel during use. The upper crown now controls the inner two-tone second time zone ring, while the lower crown is used to set the time.

The function remains the same.

The user experience, however, is completely different.

The wreath

From vintage to professional tool

This is perhaps where the most significant technical change lies.

The 1968 Diver 400 featured a bidirectional external bezel with a thin metal insert.

It was typical of its time.

However, it did not meet the requirements of a modern diving watch.

With the HEXA 400, Sicura is starting from scratch.

The new crown is:

• unidirectional,

• has 120 clicks,

• uses a ceramic insert,

• has deeper teeth for better grip,

• and a larger triangle at the 12 o'clock position that makes it easier to orient yourself immediately while diving.

This is not a cosmetic change.

It is a significant improvement in functionality.

The inner chapter ring

The Clever Evolution of an Old Idea

The Diver 400 used an internal rotating bezel that served primarily as a day/night indicator.

With the new HEXA 400, Sicura decided to take a different approach to this concept.

The new two-tone chapter ring allows for much clearer reading of a second time zone, thanks to its color contrast and simplified design. Thus, the element that was primarily a distinctive design feature in the original model has been transformed into a truly useful everyday function.

The dial

Less information, more substance

The Diver 400 is a prime example of the aesthetic of the late sixties.

Multiple inscriptions.

That's quite a bit of information.

Different scales.

Many elements were vying for the user's attention.

With the HEXA 400, this philosophy is abandoned.

The display becomes clearer.

Formatting is kept to an absolute minimum.

The indicators are applicable.

The matte finish reduces glare.

The date is displayed with a wider spacing and a more readable layout.

According to Sicura, this simplification was made to create a more balanced visual hierarchy and improve readability.

The indicators

A small change with great significance

The new baton indicators may seem like a simple aesthetic upgrade.

In fact, they represent a significant functional advancement.

The minute hand now reaches exactly up to the outer scale.

The hour hand becomes shorter but noticeably wider.

The seconds hand now features a larger illuminated “lollipop,” improving visibility while diving.

Sicura states that the entire design of the hands was reimagined with the sole aim of making it easy to read the time quickly under challenging conditions.

From tritium to Super-LumiNova

Collectors love the warm patina of tritium.

Divers, however, need performance.

The HEXA 400 features modern Super-LumiNova, with different shades applied to selected elements of the watch to achieve better contrast and easier orientation in the dark. Sicura itself specifies the use of C3 on the bezel and BGW9 on the hands and applied hour markers, combining intense luminosity with functional differentiation.

The bracelet

Where everyday use makes all the difference

The Diver 400 featured a distinctive five-row bracelet inspired by the so-called “beads of rice,” with a butterfly clasp.

It was charming.

But he was a product of his time.

The HEXA 400 takes a completely different approach.

The new bracelet is made of solid 316L stainless steel, features three links, a fully integrated attachment to the case, and a safety clasp with a double push-button and a ratcheting micro-adjustment system, allowing for quick, tool-free length adjustment.

It's one of those changes that don't show up in a photo, but are immediately noticeable on the wrist.

1968 and 2026

Two different eras, the same philosophy

If one were to try to summarize the relationship between the two watches in a single sentence, it would be as follows:

The Diver 400 was designed in mid-1968. The HEXA 400 was designed as if it had never stopped evolving.

Sicura did not choose to recreate the past.

He chose to continue his story.

And perhaps that is the HEXA 400’s greatest achievement: it is instantly recognizable as a Sicura, without being trapped in nostalgia.

When tradition is not a constraint but a starting point

There is a phrase that is often repeated in the world of watchmaking:

“We don’t make watches the way we used to.”

In reality, however, the goal is never to build a watch exactly as they were made sixty years ago.

The real question is to ask yourself:

"If the same people were to design that watch today, using the technology available in 2026, what would it look like?"

That seems to be exactly what Sicura was trying to answer.

The result is the HEXA 400.

More of an evolution than a reissue

Most modern reissues rely primarily on sentimental value.

Nostalgia is an extremely powerful tool.

But that's not enough.

A modern tool watch must be able to meet the needs of a user who is accustomed to:

• ceramic wreaths,

• sapphire crystals,

• reliable Swiss engines,

• comfortable bracelets,

• quick fine-tuning,

• intense brightness,

• true watertightness.

Sicura chose not to sacrifice any of these just to maintain a vintage look.

Instead, it retained everything that made the Diver 400 recognizable and redesigned everything that could be improved.

A diver who doesn't try to be like anyone else

This is perhaps the most important advantage of the HEXA 400.

In a market where dozens of diving watches share common design elements, the new Sicura stands out at first glance.

The hexagonal frame.

The Two Crowns.

The special chapter ring.

The geometry of the rim.

The sharp edges.

There is no aspect of the watch that attempts to resemble any other iconic diver's watch.

And that is perhaps the greatest compliment a designer can receive.

The balance between vintage and contemporary

One of the most difficult aspects of designing a reissue is deciding how old you want it to look.

If you stick too closely to the original, you run the risk of creating a watch that will be bought more for its collectible value than for everyday use.

If you stray too far from the original, you lose the whole point of the reissue.

The HEXA 400 seems to strike a balance between these two worlds.

It maintains your figure.

It preserves the character.

It respects history.

But he doesn't get trapped in it.

The machine that serves the purpose

The choice of the Sellita SW200 may not impress those looking for complex in-house movements.

However, that does not seem to have ever been Sicura's goal.

The HEXA 400 was designed as a utility watch.

And a tool watch must, above all, be:

• reliable,

• easy to maintain,

• with a wide range of replacement parts available,

• reliable in its operation.

The Sellita SW200 is one of the most tried-and-tested Swiss automatic movements currently in production; it operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers at least 38 hours of power reserve—specifications that are also listed in the model’s official specifications.

As professional watchmakers, we know that a watch’s long-term reliability depends not only on the brand of the movement, but also on the quality of its construction, proper assembly, and the support the manufacturer can provide over the years.

A watch that's meant to be worn

There are watches that end up spending most of their lives in a collection.

The HEXA 400 doesn't seem to have been designed for that.

The diameter is 40 mm.

The relatively short lug-to-lug distance.

Modern Ergonomics.

Micro-adjustment of the bracelet.

The large Super-LumiNova surfaces.

The ceramic wreath.

Everything suggests that Sicura wanted a watch that would be worn every day, not just on special occasions.

The-Watchmaker's Opinion

At our workshop, we are fortunate to see dozens of different mechanical watches every day.

Vintage.

Contemporary.

Collectibles.

Professional.

Each one tells its own story.

What impressed us about the HEXA 400 isn't that it revives a classic model.

This happens quite often these days.

What really stands out is that Sicura treated the Diver 400 as a concept that continued to evolve for nearly sixty years.

He did not try to replicate his weaknesses.

He didn't try to create artificial nostalgia.

He chose to preserve the character's essence and develop it in the way it would most likely have evolved had the production never been interrupted.

As Sicura’s official representative and authorized service center in Greece, this is perhaps the greatest value we see in the new HEXA 400.

It is not just the return of a historic name.

It's a statement that Sicura's story continues!